The Process of Weaving

Design + Calculation

The first step is to imagine.
Then comes math.

Designing a woven cloth takes a number of considerations: materials, color, texture, drape and end use.

Calculations are made using basic arithmetic (+-x/= math, friends) to reach desired length, width, and account for fringe, shrinkage, seam allowance for sewing, etc.

Mixing high shrink and low shrink materials, or using low interlacement in your design construction can create exciting or disastrous shaping in the washing step!

I thread my looms front to back, starting through the reed (called sleying) establishing spacing, density and arrangement of threads.

Next, yarns are threaded through heddles (wire eyelets), held on frames in sequence, creating the framework which allows for patterns to emerge later.

Winding thread by thread, each is measured to the same desired length using a warping mill or warping board (not pictured). When every thread is wound, the warp is secured and tied, then hand-looped off for storage until threading.

Weaving

The part you know, love and already know takes soooo many hours.

SO MANY HOURS! The more complex the pattern, the more you manipulate a thread by hand or tool, the more time it takes.

Pedals, connected to the frames, are pressed in sequence to create a pattern/construction. Sometimes just one thread is woven through, but the imagination (and time) are the only constraints to how many kinds of thread are woven simultaneously.

You can create incredible pieces with the most simple construction (plain weave) by varying color, material, texture and size. Complexity comes in many forms and woven construction is just one: above, a pile loop fabric and to the left, various spider weave and warp float structures.

Finishing

This process secures yarns from unraveling and lets the threads relax and settle into place after being in tension on the loom.

Edges are finished in multiple ways, but my preference is corded fringe (twisting bundles of fringe together through differential tension and secured with a knot) or if not a scarf, sewn and bound edges!

Washing brings out the best in loom-state fabric. Releasing tension, activating shrinkage and slightly unfurling spun yarns sets the woven fabric into a state it feels at ease in. If it’s not a super 3-dimensional structure the fabric is then pressed, bringing out sheen and ironing out wrinkles.

At this point, the fabric is ready for wear and enjoyment!

Dyework

Dyework can happen at any stage:
-before winding
-after winding
-on the loom
-after weaving
Dyework takes preparation, intention, stitching or clamping to create areas of resist, repeated dips and so much more washing.

So now you know a little more about the process of weaving (and then some). Congrats!